Sanma Issue 35: Flavor Relationships - A Taiwanese and Japanese Culinary Journey with Sake

Savoring the Terroir Through a Glass of Sake A Taste of Taiwanese and Japanese Culinary Traditions One can argue that our initial understanding of Japan began with taste. We are captivated by the delicate textures of Japanese cuisine and the sophisticated pleasure of sake, a taste that matures with adulthood. A mouthful of Japanese rice paired with a glass of "sake" – Japan gently conquers the world through its flavors. As Japanese cuisine continues to evolve, discerning gourmands seek the ultimate palate experience between "Ginjō" and "Daiginjō" sake. Yet, I fondly recall childhood evenings with family at small eateries tucked away in Taipei's alleys. Eating traditional Taiwanese oden from a street vendor while watching my father savor a warm glass of sake, even if it was the most affordable commercial sake, brought a sense of contentment that is intertwined with cherished family meal memories. As a novice to Japanese sake, my first visit to a sake brewery was in the Tohoku region during summer. Though it wasn't the peak brewing season, the quieter atmosphere allowed for a more leisurely chat with the brewery's "Tōji" (master brewer). "The excellence of a good sake lies in the pristine river water and the quality rice from this land," he shared. Gazing with him at the verdant rice paddies behind the brewery, stirred by the summer breeze, I truly felt the value of Japanese sake: the Tōji's ability to transform Japanese ingredients into different forms, sincerely conveying the essence of the rice fields and flowing rivers to our palates. "If one brews sake only once a year, then in a lifetime, one can only produce a limited number of bottles. Therefore, each year's brewing is a significant learning experience and encounter." The Tōji raised a glass of his proudest creation for a toast, as if sharing how he spent a year learning to appreciate the life of all things, and how a single toast connects him with friends in a moment of "ichi-go ichi-e" (one time, one meeting). In this issue of "Sanma," we set aside the rigorous academic study of Japanese sake and return to the essence of tasting. With a more relaxed approach, we invite sake enthusiasts to savor the flavors of this land together. Moving beyond the traditional pairing of sake with Japanese cuisine, we have selected a diverse range of Japanese beverages. From sake from centuries-old breweries, popular sparkling varieties, the tropical notes of Awamori, the sweet and sour nuances of umeshu, to craft beers that capture local flavors – we pair them with "delicacies" from across Taiwan. These include chocolates made from fine Taiwanese teas, Yilan rice crackers, Lukang shrimp fritters, Kaohsiung peanuts, and Penghu squid. Embracing the spirit of shared culinary experiences between Taiwan and Japan, we hope to inspire you to create your own "flavor relationships" using readily available ingredients. Pair your chosen drink with a sake that suits your palate, and let your taste buds decide: "It's delicious!" That’s the sign of a good sake that enhances the food. After experiencing the world's finest cuisines and top-tier dishes, the most profound encounters often lie in the simplicity of everyday life. Years later, bringing home a bottle of Daiginjō sake, the question "Would you like it warmed?" instantly transports me back to dinner times with family. Now at an age where I can share a drink with my father, the gentle warmth paired with Taiwanese snacks offers a familiar local flavor. It’s a way to express gratitude for each "flavor relationship" that has helped us create countless cherished memories around the dining table with loved ones.