1891-1910s German Art Nouveau Sky Blue Plique à Jour Large Photo Locket

This is a substantial Art Nouveau photo locket from Germany, dating between 1891-1910, adorned with both Guilloché and Plique à jour enameling. The intricate, sky-blue patterns on the inner part of the locket showcase Guilloché enamel. Originating in 17th-century France, this highly decorative and complex technique involves a specialized machine operated by hand to engrave precise, repeating patterns—such as waves or geometric diamonds—onto metal. Enamel powder, mixed with glass, is then applied to achieve the desired hue and saturation. This process often requires multiple, meticulous repetitions, demanding exceptional skill and patience from the artisan. The outer rim features Plique à jour, an exceptionally challenging and delicate enamel technique that is also very difficult to preserve. The French term, Plique à jour, translates from Latin as SMALTA CLARA, meaning "enamel that lets light through." This technique, with roots in the Byzantine Empire around the 6th century, differs from conventional enameling in that it lacks a metal backing, possessing only a surrounding frame. During its creation, the artisan must carefully control the amount of enamel applied within the frame and meticulously manage the temperature to achieve a translucent effect, as thin and luminous as a finely crafted window. Beyond its transparency, it allows for multi-color and gradient effects. The Art Nouveau period saw a resurgence in its application, reaching a new peak of artistry. Due to its fragile structure, surviving examples in good condition are exceptionally rare and highly coveted. It's said that Plique à jour was first used in the rose windows of cathedrals before being adopted in jewelry, making it fitting to describe these pieces as wearable rose windows. Plique à jour pieces that have survived over a century are exceedingly rare, especially those exhibiting complete artistic integrity and intricate beauty. The simultaneous presence of both Guilloché and Plique à jour enamels on a single piece, in such near-perfect condition, truly signifies a museum-quality enamel work. The reverse of this piece is marked with "D.R.G.M." and the registration number 447 806. D.R.G.M. is an abbreviation for "Deutsche Reich Gebrauchsmuster," translating to the German system of registered utility model protection. D.R.G.M. was not a permanent patent registration but offered the applicant three years of protection for their product, extendable once for a total of six years. This system, unlike the patent system, was not long-lasting, existing only in Germany between 1891 and the outbreak of World War II, with no comparable system in the UK or the United States. Interestingly, the D.R.G.M. German protection system safeguarded not the design itself, but the unique manufacturing technique behind the product. Therefore, finding a "D.R.G.M." marking on jewelry is exceptionally rare, indicating that the technical skill required to create this locket was exceptionally high, reaching a level worthy of special patent protection and recognition. The piece is in good condition, showing normal signs of oxidation and wear consistent with a century-old antique, not a new item. Origin: Germany Era: 1891-1910s Materials: Silver, Plique à jour enamel Dimensions: 5.3x4.5x0.5 cm (including bail) Weight: 15g Condition: The piece is in good condition, showing normal signs of oxidation and wear consistent with a century-old antique, not a new item. Important Notes: Antique jewelry is defined as jewelry that is "over a hundred years old." Items less than a century old are classified as vintage or second-hand jewelry. All antique jewelry sold by [Brand Name - implied] will come with a brand guarantee certificate detailing the item's era, materials, and other relevant information. A full refund will be issued if the item does not match the certificate's description. Before sale, each item's condition is meticulously documented using photographic equipment to ensure customers are fully aware of any imperfections or signs of wear. As photographs form an integral part of the item description, customers are urged to carefully consider their purchase decision before checkout. Once the checkout process is completed, due to the unique nature of the items we sell, we regret that we cannot accept returns or exchanges for any reason, including minor flaws or signs of age. Therefore, please confirm your purchase intent thoroughly before checkout to avoid any disputes. Shipping Information: Enjoy "complimentary shipping on any locket purchase" for Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macau, and Japan. All shipments within Taiwan will be sent via registered post by Chunghwa Post. If registered mail is inconvenient, please specify convenience store pickup (7-11 or FamilyMart) in your order and provide the store name or code. Shipments to Hong Kong and Macau will be sent via SF Express.